Day 3 Part Two: The Baths of Lourdes

Thursday April 30: Day 3~Part 2: The Baths of Lourdes

After a busy morning, we had a nice lunch and prepared to go to the Baths. This is what everyone looks forward to...a chance to bathe in the sacred waters of Lourdes.

We met once again in the hotel garage and loaded up the voitures. We were apprehensive and excited at the same time. This is how the Order of Malta explained the Baths to us:

The Grotto, where Our Lady appeared and the spring that feeds the baths is located.

When Our Lady led Saint Bernadette to discover the source that now feeds the Baths, she instructed Bernadette, to "Go, drink at the spring and wash yourself there." Since Our Lady did not instruct Bernadette to bathe in the water, but rather to wash in it, pilgrims do not have to take the bath if they do not wish to do so. It is possible to follow Our Lady's instruction by simply and reverently splashing oneself with the spring water at the taps below the Rosary Basilica. Many people, however, do wish to immerse themselves in the water, and the only place to do so is at the Baths. 

John and Valerie Burkart escorting Hank to the Baths.

Water for the Baths is drawn from the spring itself. Hence, it is very cold. The water is continually filtered during the time the Baths are in operation and is changed twice a day. The water is tested frequently by qualified medical personnel and has never been know to cause disease, even though many people use the same water as they do, for example in a swimming pool . 

The Baths are operated by the members of the Hospitalite' de Notre Dame de Lourdes, a group of dedicated, respectful men and women who follow strict procedures to ensure a reverent and deeply spiritual use of the spring water. Gentle and caring, they are experienced and skillful in working with all pilgrims.

A blessing from Monsignor Otellini

As we made our way towards the Baths, each Malade was given a special blessing before crossing the bridge. Only Malades, Companions and their cart puller was allowed to go the Baths. I had talked to Rick, the Red Team's Captain, about Hank's experience in the Baths. I wanted him to be able to immerse his head in the water since that is where his illness is. Rick said he would check with the Hospitalite to see if it was possible. Rick came and found me as we were in line for the Baths. He said that although Hank would not be able to immerse his head, they would provide a cup of water for him to pour over his head. Rick offered to go with Hank and we agreed. We were separated with the men going to one side and the women to the other. Hank and I went in at the same time, and I was sad that I did not hug Hank or talk to him before he went in. I found myself very tearful over it...but wasn't sure why.

We were taken from the line and sat in little blue chairs with wheels on them...pulled over to just outside the door to the dressing rooms in rows of two's and sat waiting. There were many benches filled with pilgrims behind us and along the wall...all waiting for their turn to enter the baths. In our group, just the 50 Malades and companions were allowed in...with the rest of the Order able to return on Tuesday.  As I sat and waited, I chatted with some of the other Malades and companions. This is where I learned why some of the others had come to Lourdes. I knew that Hank's illness would not compare to what other people were experiencing...and yet I know Our Lady chose Hank for a reason. But sitting there, listening to the ailments of these women, or of their Malades...my heart hurt and I prayed for them as well. The young woman with brain cancer...the mother who is a surgeon
with two children...diagnosed with a ferocious bone cancer...the woman who's child has a pulmonary condition and is not eligible for a heart transplant at this time, the woman with breast cancer and more. As I listened and silently prayed...I asked Our Lady to intercede for all of us, and heal the many gathered here.

The waiting area

It was finally my turn as they pushed my chair in, the other women waved farewell to me. I was pulled into a  hallway, just outside a curtained off room. They helped me from my chair, opened the curtain and placed me in a chair. "Italia?" a woman in a blue Hospitalite apron asked. I shook my head. "Francais?" she asked. "English," I replied. "Ahh..Anglais!" she exclaimed. "Anglais!" She called to the other workers. A tall young woman with her blonde hair in a ponytail walked over to me. "English?" she asked. I nodded. "Stand up please." I stood and she held up a dark blue canvas curtain. "Undress please," she said. As I started to undress she said softly, "Please take off everything" and pointed to a hook hanging just outside the curtain for me to hang my clothes. "Hold your bra in your right hand." I did as was directed, "Give me your hands," and she took my right hand in her right hand and my left in her left...wrapping the curtain around me, with my arms wrapped around myself like a hug. She sat me down and I waited.

The room was small, with eight chairs placed against opposite walls. To the right was a curtained off area, where I knew the Bath to be. A woman, also a companion on our pilgrimage was brought in and went through the same procedure as I did. As I sat there in silent prayer, I noticed that she had flung her right hand out of her curtain with her bra hanging from her hand. "Why am I holding my bra?" she asked in a loud voice. The young woman ran over and tucked her hand back under the curtain, offering no explanation. I am such a rule follower, and although I wondered the same thing, I would never have thought to actually ask. I was so distracted and cracking up inside, that I couldn't focus on my prayers and all of a sudden, it was my turn. I didn't feel ready!

Photo from the Internet: we weren't allowed cameras

The women walked me to the curtain and led me inside. There, before me looked like a stone bathtub. They held up a white sheet and raised up my arms. They took the dark blue curtain off of me and unwrapped the white sheet around me. It felt like a well choreographed dance, leaving me feeling completely covered and not exposed, as I expected. They turned me around and told me to step down onto the first step of the Bath. As I faced the Bath they said, "Do you have a prayer to say to Our Lady?" I said yes...but honestly could not remember a thing as the shock of the cold water hit me. As I gathered my wits about me they started to move me forward. "Step down, step down," they said, moving me forward. "Walk forward," prodding me along and holding my arms on either side of me. There was a small statue of Our Lady that I kept my eyes on...and as I focused on my petitions, they told me to sit, as in a chair. My brain told my body "NO! it is COLD!" But my body obeyed and I started to sit, still planning on saying my prayer. But as soon as my legs bent, they had me falling back, into the water! Keeping my head out of the water, they gently placed me in the water and pulled me back up, using the sheet for leverage. And before I knew it, I was done. "Oh no!" I thought, "I didn't ask Our Lady my petitions!" And then I realized that she knows why I am here. And at the same time, I was struck with the enormity of where I was...I was in Lourdes! I had just bathed in the waters of Lourdes! What a once in a lifetime experience! What an amazing gift! And then I was back in the dressing room, getting dressed. And strangely, just as I was told...even though I had no towel, I was practically dry! I noticed some drops of water on my legs, but as I went to get dressed my legs were dry.

After the Baths...the Baths are on the right side of this photo...with the Grotto underneath the Basilica.

I was then placed back in a chair and wheeled out to where the rest of our party was waiting for those who had gone through the Baths. I came out and found John and Hank. I came over to Hank and he hugged me from where he sat in the voiture. John had a big grin on his face and said,exclaimed, "You look radiant! You are glowing!"  And I believe I probably was! I asked Hank, "How did it go?" "Good," he said. "I am glad Rick went with me and I could go first. It was weird...a bunch of French guys sitting around in their underwear, staring at each other. And the water was really cold!" Gotta love the way he thinks! I bet it was weird and it really was cold.  I asked if he was able to say a prayer before going in and he said yes. As I looked at Hank, he seemed different...more relaxed than I had seen him since we left home. His shoulders seemed to be have gone down...as if he had been holding his breath all this time and had finally exhaled. In the coming days, I would hear this from others...that Hank seemed different...more at ease. I don't know if it was just the nervous anticipation of the Baths or if the waters had a profound effect on him...either way, something beautiful was happening here.

Mausoleum Chapel at the top of the Rosary Basilica

The next event on our schedule was the Tri-Association Mass, a mass where all three American Orders of Malta would attend: The Western Association, the Federal Association and the American Association. I think between the three groups, there were between 800-1,000 people taking part in the Mass. We left the Baths and headed to the Rosary Basilica, part of the area known as "The Domain". We had a little time, so we went to the top of the church, which is a mausoleum. It is lined with marble walls and is beautiful as you go into the inner chapel. Afterwards, we were able to stand outside the chapel and look out on the Domain...what a beautiful sight! We then headed down to the Rosary Basilica for Mass. We were seated and waited for mass to start. The church was full as the music started and the procession of the clergy got underway. The Mass was celebrated by Cardinal Timothy Dolan from NYC. (I have a Rosary that I bought at St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York, that has his image on the case...I SO wanted him to sign it, but never had the chance. I really should have stalked him a little better...) Attending Mass that is celebrated by a Cardinal is a big deal...Cardinals are appointed by the Pope and are the top of the Catholic hierarchy. I loved seeing the multitude of Priests, Monsignors, Bishops, Arch Bishops and Cardinals process into the church. I have only seen such things on TV, when watching the Pope celebrate Mass in Rome.

Cardinal Dolan said a beautiful Mass, telling us that "I am going to keep the Homily short, as we are all tired." I have to admit that a lot of us were falling asleep standing up...me included...and being in the second row...I wonder if he noticed! Inspiring Mass in the most beautiful of settings. It was a big day...Distribution of Rosaries, Reconciliation, Washing of the Feet, The Baths of Lourdes and now this beautiful Mass...what an amazing honor that has been bestowed on us! As I am hearing about how others were nominated for this trip, I am learning that our situation is unique and the way Hank's nomination occurred was no coincidence. Our Lady chose Hank for this pilgrimage...at this time of his life...and I am sure the reason will be revealed as we go on this journey...

Cardinal Timothy Dolan at the Rosary Basilica

With Mass over, we headed back to the hotel for dinner, Hank in his voiture, as I walked alongside. Today was a turning point for Hank...getting used to the voiture, being surrounded by people whose sole purpose for this pilgrimage is his well-being. The love of Christ present in everything we are doing, and realizing he was hand picked by Our Lady for this journey.

We enjoyed a nice dinner with our cart team, and found out (sadly) that we would only have them for today...tomorrow we would have another pusher and puller...but we had already bonded and knew that this was a family that we felt so close to! And of course we would love the next group too...especially after they came over and introduced themselves. After dinner, Hank went with all the teens for gelato and then hung out with them in the lounge, while I kept an eye on him...and my Kronenbourg draft... Tomorrow would be another big day as we would get our first visit (one of many for me)...to the Grotto, where Our Lady appeared to Bernadette, and we would have the Anointing of the Sick Mass.
It was only our first full day here, and already I knew this was a place we would not want to leave...

Rosary Basilica

Above the altar at the Rosary Basilica

View from the Mausoleum above the Rosary Basilica, looking down onto the Domain

Hank and I across the river from The Rosary Basilica. The Grotto sits just behind us. The statue of Our Lady of Lourdes can be seen just to the right of Hank's head.

Recessional Processional of the Clergy. Notice the men in skull caps or miters...those are the bishops and cardinals.

The Journey to Green Bay and the Miracles Along the Way

Day three post-op and we were ready for a break!  We took Saturday and made it a day of rest. It was cold and cloudy out...the perfect day to stay indoors.  Hank was still feeling shy about his swollen face and not able to open his left eye, and really just wanted to stay put. Lucy and I had caught colds, so we needed a day of rest as well. Hank and brother Charlie played video games while Lucy colored. We watched movies, read books, caught up on laundry and relaxed.

On Sunday, we got up early (early for us, that is...) and went on a road trip. We couldn't let this trip just be about surgery! We find that it's easier, if we do fun things too...then Hank tends to remember the fun stuff and not the surgery itself. So we headed up to Green Bay. It was an unfortunate start of the day, as I got hit with the stomach flu that morning...but we had a plan for the day and nothing was going to stop us from going!

About a year ago, when Dr. Siebert said Hank needed another surgery and we knew it was going to be in Wisconsin instead of New York, my sister Patty sent me an email with a link. In it she wrote: "This is why you will go to Wisconsin." The link was to a site for "Our Lady of Good Help" . It's a place where the Virgin Mary  appeared some hundred years ago and is now a shrine...it's the site of healing and miracles...and since we want Hank cured...well...we want a miracle...we just had to go! It was almost a three hour drive through pastoral Wisconsin. Very serene with dairy farms, orchards, with the leaves changing colors and more. Following the signs to the town of New Franken...and down a long country road dotted with dairy farms, we found the shrine. Made up of just a few brick buildings, it didn't look like much...a church, a gift shop, a small cemetery... We got out of the car and walked around...not sure where to go first...I saw a sign that said, "crypt"... That sounded a little ominous...and then an arrow that read, "shrine."

We headed down the stairs into a dark room, and there in front of us was a lovely scene. A beautiful statue of Mary, Our Lady of Good Help, brightly lit and surrounded by bouquets of flowers, flanked by statues of kneeling angels, stood in the middle of the room. The only other light came from the numerous candles around the room. I was immediately awestruck and in tears as I knelt in the silence of the room, asking for the miracle we so desperately want. Hank went up and knelt in front of the statue, soon joined by Charlie and Lucy...all three with hands clasped and heads bowed in prayer. For me it was that last-hope kind of feeling...the one where you just want to prostrate yourself on the floor and beg...BEG for your child to be healed!

Hank was quiet and serene...just taking it all in. We made our way to the gift shop, to grab a few remembrances. As I paid for our purchase, I was talking with the nice ladies who run the gift shop, telling them that we came all the way from California. They inquired about Hank's surgery and I filled them in. One lady disappeared into the back room and came back carrying two items. "These are relics," she told me, "one from St. Theresa the Little Flower and one from St. Maria Goretti." Now this might not be amazing to anyone else...but to me, it was astonishing for two reasons...one is that St. Theresa is my patron saint...and to come by a relic of hers is quite unusual...but two...our church was started a few years ago and just this August, we completed and moved in to our new church...called...St. Maria Goretti's! So for me...this seemed so significant! The woman explained that the relics had belonged to a woman who passed away and her family left the relics with the shrine. I had Hank hold the relics and he blessed himself with them. (extra prayers!)

As we left the shrine, we saw a dog sitting in the parking lot. "Here boy!" Hank called as soon as he saw it. The dog turned and saw Hank...stood up...wagged it's tail and made a beeline for Hank. We have a border collie at home named Maverick...and the kids are really missing him. As the dog came closer, I realized that this too was a border collie! The dog came right up to Hank, rolled over onto his back and waited for Hank to rub his belly! All three kids converged on the dog, petting him and scratching his belly. When he had enough, the dog rolled over and only had eyes for Hank. All he wanted to do was reach Hank's face and smother him with dog kisses. Hank's face lit up with such sheer happiness...an amazing sight!

We finally gathered up the kids and headed for our next stop...Green Bay...home of the Green Bay Packers! You can't go to Wisconsin and NOT go to Lambeau Field! It's the Holy Grail of Football! I expected a big city like San Francisco or something...but it's not...no skyscrapers...and the stadium is truly in a neighborhood! The parking lot looked deserted...the Pack had an away game that day...but we went ahead and climbed the steps to the stadium anyway.  From a religious shrine to a sports shrine...that's how we felt. So excited to be there! Lucy and I fell behind as we hit the ladies room...Jeff and the boys were at the info desk, talking to the woman at the counter. The next thing I knew we were following her from the atrium to the actual stadium! Apparently, she told Jeff it was closed...but then taking a look at Hank's sad sutured face and hearing we were from California...she called security and got clearance to take us out. (A football miracle? I think so!) It was AWESOME! Jeff looked the happiest of all as he said, "Take a picture of me!" with arms outstretched and Lambeau Field in the background.

We thanked our tour guide profusely, sad that we missed the real tour where they take you through the tunnel...but so excited that we actually made it there and got to see the stadium. As we drove the three hours back to Madison...I took a turn for the worse. I had made it through the day and now the stomach flu was taking over. But I was so grateful for the day of mini miracles...smiles on everyone's faces...Hank getting some solitude in prayer and the excitement that only a great sports' institution can bring! We still had to face getting stitches out the next day ...and Hank was still swollen and not feeling very well...but for one day, it was nice to get out and enjoy the Wisconsin countryside!

The next morning, Hank exclaimed, "Mom! I can open my eye!" Finally! After five days...he could open his eye. What a relief! "I prayed that I would be able to open my eye and see," he told me, "at breakfast I thanked Our Lady for answering my prayer." I can't help but think all our prayers were answered...there are no coincidences...and all the little things that happened at the shrine tell me that our prayers were being heard. Maybe they aren't answered right away...but they are answered!

Since I am talking about shrines and statues..etc. I do want to add something...We do not worship statues and we do not pray to anyone other than God. A statue is just like a photo of someone...a remembrance ...and if I ask you to pray for Hank...why wouldn't I ask those who are already in heaven to do the same? Jesus loved his mother and would do anything for her...so when I ask Mary to cure Hank...I am asking her to intercede on our behalf, to her Son...that is all. Our journey over the last few years with Hank and his PRS has had the highest of highs and lowest of lows...but through it all we know that God has shown us the path...